I love surfing, and today marks a small victory for me in surfing. My family and I live in this place that most people would find picturesque. There is beautiful coastline, gorgeous sandy and rocky beaches to explore, a small town feel, and a pretty deep and significant cultural history. Well, there is this one…
“Surf School”, G. Harper (2005), Photograph; Some Rights Reserved You know, even though I’ve only surfed once in the last five or so years (see previous blog post), I’ve been a surfer all of my life. But, one thing I’ve never done until now is pay attention to the professional surf scene. I mean, of…
Monterey State Beach, 10 July 2013 Okay, so today was my first time actually surfing (more than just paddling out) in about five or six years. It was only 1′ -3′, closing out, and cold (58-deg F); but I had a lot of fun catching the two waves that I paddled into. A lot has…
Fearless 